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PremiumWalls

Feature walls with real depth, and no lap lines in the finish.

Metallic, suede, pearl and layered finishes applied over a base that has been made flat and uniform first, then worked wall to wall in one go so the pattern reads as one surface with no join lines.

  • Free site inspection
  • Written, itemised quote
  • 1-year workmanship warranty
  • Same-day callback
Craftsperson applying a refined decorative wall finish

At a glance

What's a designer wall finish, and how is it different from paint?

A designer finish is a decorative coating built up in layers, whether that's metallic, suede, pearl, sand-textured or trowelled, where the effect comes from how the material is laid on, not just its colour. It goes over a flat, evenly sealed base coat, and each wall is worked from corner to corner in one continuous pass so no joins show.

When this is the answer, and when it is not.

Sending you to the wrong service wastes your money and our time. This is how to tell.

This is likely right if

  • You want one or two walls to carry the room instead of repainting everything in a new colour
  • The wall ends at clean break points, internal corners, a groove, a beading or a false wall edge, where the finish can stop
  • You want depth, sheen movement and texture that a flat emulsion can't produce
  • It is a wall people stand close to: a headboard wall, a dining wall, a reception or a lift lobby

Something else comes first if

  • There's damp, seepage or salt bloom on the wall, a thin decorative layer won't hold that back, and the source has to be traced and treated first
  • The wall is wavy or heavily patched and you don't want it levelled, grazing light will show every undulation through a metallic or polished layer, and the finish gets blamed for the plaster
  • Carpentry, grinding or false ceiling work is still running in the room, that dust settles into wet layers and can't be taken out afterwards

What the service includes.

  • Surface and light assessment

    We check the wall for damp, hollow plaster, cracks and chalky old coatings, and we look at how your cove lights, spots and windows rake across it. Both decide which finishes are realistic here.

  • Sample panels in your own light

    Shortlisted finishes made up as panels and held on the actual wall, looked at in daylight and again with your own lights on, because these effects change completely with the angle of the light.

  • Levelling, sealing and base coat

    Cracks filled, putty applied and sanded true, then a sealer and a tinted base coat that give one even porosity across the wall. Patchy absorption is what turns a decorative layer blotchy.

  • Protection and dust control

    Floors, furniture, fittings and adjoining surfaces covered, and the room kept still while layers are wet, AC and fans off, because moving air flash-dries a section and leaves a mark in it.

  • Layered application in one pass

    Each wall taken corner to corner in one continuous session with the wet edge kept live, and the same applicator on a wall throughout so the stroke direction stays consistent.

  • Protective topcoat and handover

    A clear or wax layer where the finish needs one, then a walkthrough at an angle to the light, care instructions, and a written warranty with its conditions stated.

Not included, or quoted separately

  • Wallpaper, panelling, mouldings, mirror and any carpentry the design calls for
  • Damp source treatment and waterproofing behind the wall, quoted separately
  • Electrical and lighting work, including moving or adding the cove and spot lights the finish is meant to be seen under
  • Ceiling finishes, unless the effect is specified to carry onto the ceiling and quoted for it
  • Patch repair of a damaged area after handover, a continuous finish is recoated wall to wall, and that's a fresh quotation

The sequence.

  1. Inspection and light study

    We measure the wall, check it for damp, hollow plaster and old coatings, and see how your lights and windows fall across it. Grazing light decides how flat the base must be and which finishes will work here.

  2. Sample panels and approval

    Shortlisted finishes made up as panels on the wall itself. You approve one in daylight and again under your own lighting before anything is ordered.

  3. Level and seal the base

    Cracks opened and filled, putty applied and sanded true, then sealed. This stage decides whether the finish looks intentional or accidental.

  4. Base coat

    A tinted base applied to the agreed colour and left to dry properly. The base sets the depth the metallic or suede layer will read at, so it isn't rushed to save a stage.

  5. Build the decorative layers

    Applied to the agreed layer count with the recoat interval respected, each wall worked corner to corner without a break so no lap line forms.

  6. Topcoat, inspect and hand back

    Protective layer where specified, masking removed, then a walkthrough with you standing where the light rakes across the wall, because that's the angle that shows a lap line, a thin layer or a missed edge, plus care instructions.

What moves the price on this job.

We do not publish a rate, because it would change once someone measured your property. These are the variables that decide it.

  • Which finish you choose, a rolled suede, a trowelled metallic and a multi-layer polished effect are very different amounts of hand labour
  • How much levelling the base needs before the first decorative layer, which is the largest variable on an older or builder-finished wall
  • The number of layers the effect is built from, and whether a protective topcoat is specified
  • Wall area, and more importantly how many uninterrupted runs it breaks into, niches, a TV recess and grooves slow the work far more than plain area does
  • Height and access, since holding a wet edge from a platform or staging needs more hands on the same wall
  • Whether the room is occupied, and how much sealing off and re-sequencing is needed to keep dust off wet layers while carpentry, false ceiling or other trades are still running
Read the full cost guide

Designer Wall Finishes — your questions.

Can a damaged patch be touched up later?

Not invisibly. A designer finish is a continuous pattern laid in one pass, so a repaired patch sits as a separate piece of work, the direction of the sheen and the edges of the layers never quite match. A small mark can sometimes be softened, but the honest position is that a damaged area is recoated corner to corner. We record the exact specification used so a later recoat can be matched.

Will the finish hide the unevenness in my wall?

It depends on the finish. Sand-textured and suede effects are forgiving and will disguise minor undulation. Metallic, pearl and polished finishes do the opposite, they're reflective and directional, so light travelling across the wall exaggerates every ripple and old patch. If your wall is lit from a cove or by a window at a low angle, we level the base properly first or steer you towards a more forgiving effect.

Can these finishes be used in a bathroom or on an outside wall?

Most can't. The majority of interior decorative finishes aren't built for standing moisture or for direct sun and rain, and a wall that's damp behind will push the layers off whatever sits on top. There are exterior-rated and moisture-tolerant systems for some effects, and at the inspection we'll tell you plainly whether the one you like exists for that location. In Bengaluru, monsoon damp on a shared or external wall is the usual reason a chosen finish has to change.

Why do you insist on a sample panel on our own wall?

Because these finishes are made of light as much as colour. The same material can read as bronze in daylight and as dull grey under a warm downlight, and a texture that looks beautiful in a showroom can flatten completely under a ceiling light sitting directly above it. A physical panel on your own wall, seen at different times of day and with your own lights on, is the only reliable way to approve one.

How should we clean the wall afterwards?

Gently, and dry wherever possible. Most decorative layers are thinner and softer than emulsion, and scrubbing burnishes the surface, it leaves a shiny mark that can't be rubbed out. Dust with a soft dry cloth, and lift marks with a barely damp cloth and no cleaning agent. Where a protective topcoat is specified we'll tell you at handover exactly what that layer will and won't take.

Let us look at your walls first.

Tell us about the property and we will set up a free colour and wall inspection. You get a written, itemised quotation afterwards, with no obligation to go ahead.

  1. We call you back the same day to get a picture of the property and the surfaces.
  2. We agree a time and come out for the free inspection.
  3. You get the written scope and itemised quotation.
  4. Nothing starts until you approve it.