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An exterior that sheds the monsoon instead of soaking it up.

A coating system chosen for the elevation it has to survive, wind-driven rain on one face, hard afternoon sun on another, applied over plaster that has been cleaned, repaired and dried first, not painted over damp.

  • Free site inspection
  • Written, itemised quote
  • 1-year workmanship warranty
  • Same-day callback
Professional exterior painting on a contemporary Bengaluru home

At a glance

Is weatherproof exterior coating different from ordinary exterior painting?

It's a thicker, more flexible film than ordinary exterior emulsion, built to shed wind-driven rain and bridge hairline plaster cracks on exposed elevations. Ordinary exterior painting is mostly about colour and appearance. We choose the system by the substrate and by which face of the building takes the weather, and it only works over a dry, sound surface.

When this is the answer, and when it is not.

Sending you to the wrong service wastes your money and our time. This is how to tell.

This is likely right if

  • Rain marks or damp patches appear on the same one or two elevations after every monsoon
  • The old cement paint has gone chalky and powders off on your hand when you rub the wall
  • Fine shrinkage cracks are spreading across cement plaster on a face that takes the weather
  • Green or black growth keeps returning on the shaded walls no matter how often they're washed

Something else comes first if

  • Water is entering from the terrace slab, a parapet junction or a sunken bathroom, coating the outer face traps that water and blisters the film, so the source has to be treated first
  • The plaster sounds hollow when tapped or is lifting in patches, that comes off and is replastered before any coating is worth applying
  • Cracks are wide, stepped, or running along slab and column junctions, that needs a structural engineer's opinion, not a flexible film stretched over the top

What the service includes.

  • Elevation-by-elevation survey

    We assess each face separately with moisture readings and a tap test, because the wall taking wind-driven rain and the shaded wall growing algae need different answers.

  • Access and protection

    Scaffolding or rope access set up to reach the full height, with windows, grills, name boards, ground-floor shopfronts and planting below covered before washing begins.

  • Washing back to a sound surface

    Pressure washing, scraping off chalking cement paint and loose film, and treating algae and moss so the growth is killed rather than sealed in under the new coat.

  • Crack repair and junction sealing

    Hairline cracks opened and filled, failed plaster patches made good, and window frame edges, sill and chajja returns, pipe penetrations and coping joints sealed, these leak long before the open wall face does.

  • Primer matched to the substrate

    Chosen for cement plaster, fair-face concrete, brick or board, and for what's already on the wall: an alkali-resistant primer on fresh plaster, a penetrating sealer where the old surface is chalky.

  • Coats applied at the stated film build

    Applied to the film thickness the system needs rather than thinned to spread further, worked into edges, textures and returns by brush, with the coat count written into your quotation.

Not included, or quoted separately

  • Terrace, balcony and sunken-slab waterproofing, different systems, quoted separately
  • Tracing or repairing leaking rainwater downpipes, overflow lines, AC drain lines and embedded plumbing
  • Structural crack repair, and any work needing a structural engineer's opinion
  • Full replastering of an elevation, and civil work such as new copings, chajjas or drip mouldings
  • Removing or refixing AC outdoor units, cabling, signage, dish antennas and window grills fixed to the facade

The sequence.

  1. Survey of each elevation

    We look at every face on its own, take moisture readings, tap for hollow plaster and work out where the water is actually getting in. Exposure decides the system, not the size of the building.

  2. System and colour selection

    A flexible high-build film where plaster is finely cracked, a clear penetrating repellent where exposed stone or fair-face concrete has to keep its look. Colour approved on a sample patch on your own building, seen in full sun and again in shade.

  3. Access and covering up

    Access erected, safe working confirmed, and everything below and around the elevation sheeted and masked before the first wash.

  4. Wash, strip and repair

    Washing down, removing chalking and loose coating, killing growth, then crack repair, plaster patching and detail sealing. This stage decides whether the coating survives its first monsoon.

  5. Dry, prime and coat

    We wait for the plaster to come down to an acceptable moisture reading, prime it, then apply the coats with a rain-free window for each, a coat washed before it cures doesn't recover.

  6. Joint inspection and handover

    We walk the building with you elevation by elevation, close the touch-ups, strike the access, and issue the written warranty with its stated conditions.

What moves the price on this job.

We do not publish a rate, because it would change once someone measured your property. These are the variables that decide it.

  • Measured elevation area including parapets, chajjas and sill returns, not the built-up area of the flats
  • How the height is reached, ladder, scaffolding or rope access, and whether there's room to stand scaffolding on every side
  • The condition of what's already on the wall, since chalking cement paint or peeling film adds a full removal stage
  • How much crack cutting and plaster patching comes to light once the wall has been washed
  • The system itself, a flexible high-build coating, a plain exterior emulsion and a clear water repellent are priced differently
  • Working around occupied flats, ground-floor shops, and a monsoon that limits which days are usable
Read the full cost guide

Weatherproof Exterior Coating — your questions.

Can you do this work during the monsoon?

We can work between spells, but not through them. The wall has to be dry enough at the surface, and each coat needs a rain-free window to cure, a fresh film washed by rain before it sets stays soft, streaks, and loses its bond. On an exposed elevation we plan around the forecast and stop when the weather turns rather than push on.

Will this stop the damp patch inside my bedroom?

Only if the water is entering through the outside wall face. Very often it is coming from the terrace, a parapet junction, a leaking downpipe or a bathroom on the other side of that wall. If we coat the outside while water enters from elsewhere, the moisture is trapped and pushes the new film off. We check the source at the survey and tell you plainly if a different treatment comes first.

The old paint powders off on my hand. Can you just coat over it?

No. That chalk is the old cement paint breaking down, and anything applied over it bonds to a loose layer rather than to the wall. It has to be washed and scraped back until the surface stops powdering, then sealed with a penetrating primer. Skipping that step is the most common reason an exterior coat lifts in sheets after one monsoon.

Will the coating cover cracks in the plaster?

A flexible high-build coating bridges fine shrinkage cracks in plaster when it is applied at the right film thickness, thin it to cover more area and it stops doing that. Wider cracks are cut open and filled first. Cracks that run along slab and column junctions, or that are stepped and still moving, are a structural matter and no coating will hold them closed.

Why does the green growth keep coming back on one wall?

Because that face stays wet, shade, a neighbouring building close by, a leaking pipe or splash off a chajja above. Painting over algae seals it in and it grows back through the film. We kill and remove the growth, deal with what's keeping the surface wet where we can, and use a coating suited to a damp-prone elevation. If a drainage detail is causing it, that gets fixed first.

Let us look at your walls first.

Tell us about the property and we will set up a free colour and wall inspection. You get a written, itemised quotation afterwards, with no obligation to go ahead.

  1. We call you back the same day to get a picture of the property and the surfaces.
  2. We agree a time and come out for the free inspection.
  3. You get the written scope and itemised quotation.
  4. Nothing starts until you approve it.