A garage floor that hot tyres don't lift and oil wipes off.
A two-pack epoxy floor for a domestic garage, built on a slab that has been ground, moisture-tested and repaired first, because a coating that lifts under a hot tyre in its first summer was never bonded to begin with.
- Free site inspection
- Written, itemised quote
- 1-year workmanship warranty
- Same-day callback
At a glance
Does epoxy floor coating hold up in a home garage?
Yes, if the slab underneath is dry, sound and properly ground before the resin goes on. Epoxy bonds to the top skin of the concrete, so we grind off weak laitance and old sealers, test the slab for moisture coming up from below, fill cracks, then apply a primer and a two-pack epoxy body coat. Hot-tyre pickup and peeling nearly always trace back to a skipped step, not the resin itself.
When this is the answer, and when it is not.
Sending you to the wrong service wastes your money and our time. This is how to tell.
This is likely right if
- Your garage has a bare cement or IPS floor that sheds dust every time it is swept and marks at the first oil drip
- The slab is fully cured, sound underfoot and dry, with no hollow patches, damp marks or white salt bloom
- You want a floor that oil, coolant and brake dust can be mopped off rather than soaked into
- You are finishing a new independent house or villa and want the garage floor sealed before the car moves in
Something else comes first if
- Moisture is rising through the slab, a plastic sheet taped down overnight comes up wet underneath. Sealing the top of a slab that has no membrane under it only traps the vapour, so epoxy over it blisters and peels. The source of the water has to be found and dealt with first, and where it is ground moisture with nothing below the slab to stop it, an epoxy floor is not the right finish at all.
- The screed sounds hollow when tapped or is breaking into loose plates. It has separated from the slab and must be cut out and relaid; a coating over it lifts with the screed.
- The floor was laid recently. A new screed holds water for weeks and a coating traps it, so we moisture-test before fixing a start date rather than coating on trust.
What the service includes.
Slab assessment and moisture test
We tap the floor for hollow screed, look for cracks, oil soak, salt bloom and old sealers, and tape a plastic sheet to the slab to see whether moisture is rising through it. What we find decides the preparation, and whether the job can go ahead at all.
Diamond grinding
The slab is mechanically ground with dust extraction to strip laitance, dust and any old paint or sealer and open the pores of sound concrete. Epoxy holds only as well as the layer it sits on, so that layer has to be the concrete itself.
Oil removal and crack repair
Oil-soaked patches are degreased and ground back until the concrete stops bleeding, cracks are cut open and filled with epoxy repair mortar, and a spalled threshold or drain edge is rebuilt before any coating goes near it.
Primer coat
A low-viscosity epoxy primer soaks into the ground surface and seals it, so the body coat bonds to primer instead of fighting air and moisture rising out of the slab pores. Patches that drink it dry get a second pass.
Body coat and anti-slip finish
Two-pack epoxy in your agreed colour, mixed by weight in small batches and laid within its pot life, with anti-slip aggregate broadcast on the ramp and wherever you've asked for grip when the floor is wet.
Cure control and handover
The garage is kept ventilated and closed to traffic while the coat hardens. We walk the floor with you at handover, leave written notes on cleaning and what to keep off it, and issue a written warranty with its conditions stated.
Not included, or quoted separately
- Cutting out and relaying a hollow, cracked or debonded screed, a masonry job we quote separately before any coating is discussed
- Damp-proofing or treating moisture rising through the slab or coming in at the wall base
- The open driveway or apron outside the shutter line, which sits in rain and direct sun and needs a different specification
- Emptying the garage, vehicles, two-wheelers, shelving, washing machine or stored goods have to be out before the grinder arrives
- Painting the garage walls, ceiling and rolling shutter, which is a separate job done before the floor
The sequence.
Inspect, test and measure
We measure the floor inside the walls, tap for hollow screed, tape down a moisture test and check where oil has soaked in. The quotation and the preparation plan come from this, not from a photo.
Empty and seal the garage
Everything out, the door into the house sealed with sheeting against grinding dust, and a power point agreed for the grinder and extractor.
Grind and repair
Diamond grinding with dust extraction, vacuuming, degreasing of oil patches, crack cutting and filling, threshold rebuilt. The floor is checked again once it is clean; some faults only show after grinding.
Prime
Primer rolled onto a dust-free slab and Primer rolled onto a dust-free slab and, once it has hardened, checked for dry, thirsty patches that need a second pass before the body coat. that need a second pass before the body coat.
Lay the body coat
Epoxy mixed by weight in batches sized to its pot life, spread with a squeegee and back-rolled, anti-slip aggregate broadcast while it is wet, and the garage closed behind us with ventilation kept running.
Cure, inspect and hand back
Foot traffic first, the car last, on dates we give you before we start. We walk the floor with you, close any snags, and hand over the care notes and written warranty.
What moves the price on this job.
We do not publish a rate, because it would change once someone measured your property. These are the variables that decide it.
- Floor area measured inside the garage walls, and whether the internal ramp up to the shutter is included
- How much grinding the slab needs, a smooth trowelled or previously sealed floor takes longer to open up than a rough IPS finish
- Oil contamination: a floor that has soaked up years of drips needs repeated degreasing and deeper grinding before it will take a primer
- Crack, screed and threshold repair found at inspection or exposed by grinding
- Coating build, a thin roller-applied system or a thicker self-levelling body coat, and whether a UV-stable topcoat is added, plain epoxy yellows and chalks where direct sun reaches it, so a garage that stands with the shutter open most of the day may need one
- Anti-slip finish, colour, and whether you want a coved skirting run up the wall for easier washing
Garage Epoxy Floor Coating — your questions.
Why did my last epoxy floor peel where the tyres sit?
Almost always because the coating was never properly bonded. Tyres come off the road hot, sit on the floor and soften the coating beneath them; as the tyre cools it contracts and pulls. A coat that's keyed into ground concrete holds, but one sitting on laitance, dust, an old sealer or a still-damp slab lets go in exactly that spot. Thin single-pack floor paints sold as epoxy fail the same way, because they dry by solvent loss rather than curing by chemical reaction, so a hot tyre softens them again. Grinding and moisture testing exist to prevent this.
Can you coat over existing tiles or an old painted floor?
Over tiles, yes, provided every tile is firmly bonded, we tap each one, lift any that sound hollow and fill the gaps. The glaze is ground off so the primer can grip, and grout lines are filled level or they show through as a grid. Over old paint, no. We grind it off completely, because we can't know what it was bonded to, and the new floor would only ever be as well attached as that old layer.
Will the floor be slippery when it is wet?
A smooth epoxy floor is slippery with water on it, and a garage floor gets wet every monsoon and every car wash. We broadcast a fine anti-slip aggregate into the coat on the ramp and can do the same across the whole floor. The trade-off is that a textured floor holds a little more dirt and takes a stiffer brush to clean, so we agree the grade of grit with you on a sample before the floor is done.
When can I park the car on the new floor?
Not until the coating has hardened right through, and that depends on the product, the temperature and the humidity in your garage, so we give you the date before we start rather than a rule of thumb. Foot traffic comes first, the car last. Parking early presses tyre prints into a coat that still feels dry to the touch, and that can't be polished out, only recoated. Plan somewhere else to park for that period.
Does the monsoon affect epoxy floor work in Bengaluru?
Yes, and we plan around it. Two-pack epoxy curing in humid air can form a waxy film called amine blush, which stops the next coat bonding unless it is washed off. Cool, damp nights also slow the cure, and a slab that's sweating with condensation can't be coated at all. We check the slab and the air before mixing, keep the garage ventilated, and would rather wait a day than seal moisture into your floor.
Related services
- Garage PaintingFor the walls, ceiling and shutter of the same garage, done before the floor goes down.
- Dampness and Seepage TreatmentIf the moisture test fails, this is where the source of the water gets traced before anyone talks about a floor coating.
- Epoxy Floor CoatingFor a basement, stilt parking or larger floor that needs a heavier build than a domestic garage.
Let us look at your walls first.
Tell us about the property and we will set up a free colour and wall inspection. You get a written, itemised quotation afterwards, with no obligation to go ahead.
- We call you back the same day to get a picture of the property and the surfaces.
- We agree a time and come out for the free inspection.
- You get the written scope and itemised quotation.
- Nothing starts until you approve it.