Spray painting, for an even film where a brush would leave marks.
Grilles, louvres, shutters, ceilings and large open surfaces finished by spray, one even film with no brush drag or roller texture, laid down behind containment that's built before the gun is picked up, so the overspray stays inside the working zone.
- Free site inspection
- Written, itemised quote
- 1-year workmanship warranty
- Same-day callback
At a glance
When is spray painting the right choice instead of brush and roller?
Spray suits surfaces that are intricate, repetitive or large and empty: grilles, louvres, shutters, wardrobe panels, long ceiling runs, unoccupied floors. The paint is atomised into a fine mist that lands as one thin, uniform film, reaching back faces and edges a brush can't. It doesn't hide defects, though, so the surface has to be levelled first and everything nearby masked off.
When this is the answer, and when it is not.
Sending you to the wrong service wastes your money and our time. This is how to tell.
This is likely right if
- The surface is intricate or repetitive, grilles, railings, jalis, louvres, mesh or ducting, where a brush loads the edges and misses the back faces
- Shutters, doors and MDF panels need a smooth, drag-free film with an even sheen
- The area is empty and accessible: a flat before handover, an unoccupied floor, a warehouse shell or a long ceiling run
- You want one consistent sheen across a wide surface where roller laps and joins would otherwise be visible in raking light
Something else comes first if
- The surface is not yet true, spray follows the profile it is given, so putty steps, sanding scratches and old roller laps read more clearly afterwards, not less. Levelling and sanding come first
- The room is occupied and full of contents that can't be removed or sealed, masking it properly takes more labour than simply rolling it
- The coating underneath is chalky, flaking or damp, the sprayed film bonds to that loose layer and lifts with it, so the old coating and the moisture source are dealt with first
What the service includes.
Surface and access assessment
We check what's being sprayed, how close the nearest thing we must not paint is, where power, light and ventilation will come from, and whether the substrate is flat enough to take a sprayed film at all.
Containment and masking
Sheeting, taped edges and floor cover around the whole working zone, extended to whatever sits below and downwind on balconies and facades. Dried mist travels much further than people expect before it lands.
Preparation to a spray-ready surface
Filling, sanding and degreasing until the surface reads flat under a raking light, then a primer chosen for that substrate. This stage is longer than for roller work, because spray conceals nothing.
Test panel and set-up
Tip size, fan width, pressure and material viscosity fixed on a test panel, and the sheen looked at in the actual light of the space, before anything is sprayed on your surface.
Spray application
Overlapping passes at a held distance, keeping the wet edge, building the film in controlled coats rather than one heavy pass, heavy passes are what cause runs, sags and orange peel.
De-masking, inspection and touch-up
Tape lifted while the film is at the right stage so it doesn't tear a hardened edge, then a raking-light check for holidays, dry spray and stray overspray, and the site cleared.
Not included, or quoted separately
- Levelling, putty and plaster repair needed to make a surface fit for spraying, assessed and quoted separately
- Removing and refitting shutters, hardware, handles, grille panels and light fittings, and dismantling modular units
- Scaffolding, ladders, hoists or rope access for facades and high ceilings
- Society permission and neighbour notice for exterior or balcony spraying, which the owner or the association arranges
- Waterproofing, damp treatment and anti-fungal work, which must be closed out before any spraying begins
The sequence.
Site visit and suitability call
We look at the surface, the surroundings and the access, and say plainly where spray earns its place and where brush or roller will serve you better on the same job.
Method and specification agreed
Coating, coat count, sheen, what gets masked and what gets taken off and sprayed away from the room, written into the quotation, not improvised on site.
Preparation and levelling
Filling, sanding, degreasing and priming. On joinery this includes denibbing between coats, because a sprayed film magnifies any grain of dust caught in the previous one.
Containment built
Sheeting, taping and floor protection, and for fine joinery or strong colours an enclosed zone with dust kept down and air moving in a controlled direction.
Spray in sections
One section at a time, wet edge held, film build checked as we go. We stop when light, wind or humidity turns against the finish rather than pushing on and blooming the coat.
Inspect and hand back
Masking removed, edges cut clean, the film walked with you under raking light, touch-ups completed and the containment cleared out.
What moves the price on this job.
We do not publish a rate, because it would change once someone measured your property. These are the variables that decide it.
- How much masking and containment the surroundings demand, frequently the largest single item, and independent of the area actually painted
- Whether the space is empty or occupied, and whether shutters and panels can be removed and sprayed away from the room
- Developed surface area on intricate work, a grille, louvre or railing has far more surface than its outline suggests
- The coating chosen and how much of it lands: fine finishes need more passes and more material for the same film
- Access, floor level, facade height, and whether ladders, scaffolding or rope access are involved
- How much preparation the substrate needs before it can carry an even sprayed film
Spray Painting — your questions.
Will spray painting hide the marks on my walls?
No. Spray lays an even film over whatever shape the wall already has. A roller drags material into small hollows and can soften them; a sprayed coat follows the surface exactly, so putty steps, sanding scratches and old roller laps often look more obvious afterwards, not less. If the wall is uneven, levelling and sanding have to happen first, and that's a separate stage in the quotation.
Can you spray while we're living in the house?
Sometimes, and only room by room. Everything inside the containment must be removable or sealable, adjoining rooms have to be shut off, and the space needs air moving while the coating flashes off and the fumes clear. Where a room is full of furniture, electronics and soft furnishings, masking it properly takes more labour than rolling it. We'll tell you that at the inspection, not afterwards.
How do you stop overspray reaching cars and neighbouring balconies?
By containing first and spraying second. The working zone is sheeted and taped, and on exteriors we extend cover to whatever sits below and downwind, vehicles, air conditioner outdoor units, clothes lines, water tanks and planters. We also watch the wind. On upper floors a light breeze carries dried mist a long way, so we pause and wait rather than carry on.
Which surfaces are genuinely worth spraying?
Grilles, railings, jalis, louvres, mesh and ducting, where a brush loads the edges and can't reach behind; wardrobe shutters, doors and panels that need a smooth film with no brush drag; and large empty runs such as a warehouse shell, a flat before handover or a long ceiling. For one occupied bedroom, roller work is usually the sensible answer.
Does spraying use more paint than rolling?
Usually yes. Some of the atomised material never reaches the surface, and fine finishes are applied in more, thinner passes. That extra quantity is shown in your quotation as material rather than buried in it. In return you get even coverage on shapes a roller can't follow, no brush marks, and one consistent sheen across a wide surface.
Related services
- Wall Levelling and RestorationSpray shows every ridge and step, so the wall is levelled before it is sprayed.
- Gate, Grill and Railing PaintingGates, grilles and railings are where spray earns its place, a brush can't reach the back faces. See how they're de-rusted and prepared first.
- Commercial Interior PaintingEmpty commercial floors are where sprayed application makes the most sense.
Let us look at your walls first.
Tell us about the property and we will set up a free colour and wall inspection. You get a written, itemised quotation afterwards, with no obligation to go ahead.
- We call you back the same day to get a picture of the property and the surfaces.
- We agree a time and come out for the free inspection.
- You get the written scope and itemised quotation.
- Nothing starts until you approve it.