Your almirah resprayed, with the rust dealt with underneath.
Old steel almirahs stripped, rust treated and spray-finished to an even film, with the work done inside a sheeted-off area in your home so overspray, dust and solvent smell stay inside that enclosure instead of travelling through the rest of the flat.
- Free site inspection
- Written, itemised quote
- 1-year workmanship warranty
- Same-day callback
At a glance
Can an old steel almirah be repainted, or is it better to replace it?
If the sheet metal is still solid, repainting is worth it. The visible part is a sprayed enamel finish, but the work is underneath: emptying and masking, sanding the old factory gloss dull so the new coat can grip, taking rust back to bare metal, and priming before it flash-rusts again. Where the base has rusted through, replacement is the honest answer.
When this is the answer, and when it is not.
Sending you to the wrong service wastes your money and our time. This is how to tell.
This is likely right if
- The steel is sound but the original factory finish has chalked, faded or gone patchy after years of wiping
- Surface rust has crept up from the base rail and along the door bottoms, while the sheet underneath is still solid
- You are repainting the room and want the almirah to sit with the new colour instead of replacing a usable unit
- Someone has already brushed enamel over it and you can see the brush lines, drips and sticker marks
Something else comes first if
- The base rail or back panel flexes and flakes away when pressed, the sheet has gone thin, and that's sheet-metal repair or replacement before it is a painting job
- The almirah stands against a wall with damp, the back panel will rust again from behind, so the wall has to be traced and treated first
- The doors have dropped or the locking rod is jamming, a fitter should get the hardware moving first, because we mask around a lock, we can't free it with paint
What the service includes.
Condition and rust survey
We check the base rail, the door bottoms and the back panel, the three places an almirah rusts first, and press the sheet to judge whether it is still solid or already thin.
Emptying, moving and enclosure
You empty the unit; we pull it clear of the wall, sheet the floor and build a masked enclosure so overspray and solvent smell don't travel through the rest of the flat.
Degreasing and keying
Stickers and adhesive residue removed, hair oil and kitchen film washed off, then the whole shell sanded from gloss to dull, spray grips a keyed surface, never a shine.
Rust treatment and metal primer
Loose and flaking rust taken back to bright metal, treated, and primed the same day, before Bengaluru humidity puts a fresh bloom on the bare steel.
Sprayed finish coats
Thin, even coats through a gun, flatted between, so large flat doors and the loft box come out without brush lines or roller texture.
Refit, airing and handover
Handles, hinge caps and the locking rod refitted and the lock tested, doors and locker left open to air, and a walkthrough before you load it again.
Not included, or quoted separately
- Welding, patching or sheet replacement where a panel has rusted through, that's a fabricator's job, not a painter's
- Lock, latch, hinge and locking-rod repair, and key cutting, we remove, mask and refit hardware, we don't make failed hardware work
- Mirror replacement or re-silvering of a spotted door mirror; we mask or lift the mirror, nothing more
- Tracing and treating damp in the wall behind the almirah, which is what rusts the back panel, quoted separately
- Emptying, sorting or storing the contents, the almirah must be empty and the loft box cleared before we arrive
The sequence.
Inspection and rust survey
We go over each unit, separate what's sound from what's beyond paint, and check whether the wall it stands against is dry. This is what the quotation is built from.
Colour and sheen approval
Sprayed onto a sample panel rather than read off a shade card, and looked at beside your wardrobe and wall colour in daylight before you commit.
Empty, move and enclose
Contents out, unit pulled off the wall onto protection, floor sheeted, and the enclosure and ventilation set up before any sanding starts.
Strip, key and treat rust
Loose coating scraped, old gloss sanded dull, rust taken to bright metal, degreased and tack-wiped, the stage that decides whether the new film lifts later.
Prime and spray
Metal primer over bare steel first, then finish coats to the count stated in your quotation, flatted between so the panels read flat and even.
Refit and hand back
Hardware refitted, doors and lock tested, the almirah stood back with an air gap behind it, and the touch-up list closed with you.
What moves the price on this job.
We do not publish a rate, because it would change once someone measured your property. These are the variables that decide it.
- The number and size of units, a two-door almirah, a three-door and one carrying a loft box are three different jobs
- How far the rust has gone, and how much has to be taken to bright metal by hand rather than sanded lightly
- Whether dents, old screw holes and deep scratches need filling and flatting before spraying
- Whether the interior, shelves, locker and door backs, is being sprayed as well as the outside
- Where the spraying happens: inside an enclosure at your home, or with the unit shifted out and brought back
- The finish chosen, since a metallic or high gloss shows every flaw and needs more flatting than a plain satin
Metal Almirah Painting — your questions.
Can you just paint over the rust that's already there?
No. A coat put over active rust lifts with the rust. Corrosion keeps working under the film because the moisture and salts are already in the metal, so the surface blisters and the stains come back through. Where rust is loose or flaking we take it back to bright metal, treat it, and get primer on the same day. Light bloom sands off; deep pitting can be stopped and filled, not reversed.
Why spray it instead of brushing?
An almirah is mostly large flat panels, and flat panels show everything. A brush leaves lines and a roller leaves texture, both of which read clearly across a door in side light. Spray lays a thin, even film that follows the pressings and beading without loading up in the corners. The trade-off is preparation: spraying needs the unit emptied, hardware masked and the area enclosed, so the setup takes longer than the painting.
How do you keep overspray off the rest of the flat?
We build an enclosure around the unit, floor sheeted, doorways and nearby walls masked, and the room ventilated so the mist is drawn out rather than settling. Dust is the other half of it: a flat almirah top catches anything falling in the air, and a single speck landing in wet enamel stays visible. That's why the enclosure goes up before sanding, and why we don't sand and spray in the same breath.
Can the dents and old drilled holes be made to disappear?
Small dents and old screw holes can be filled with a metal filler, flatted and sprayed over, and they won't read in normal light. A deep dent in thin sheet is different: the steel has stretched, so filler over it can still show as a soft dip once a gloss finish goes on. We point out which dents will vanish and which will stay faintly readable, and let you decide before we fill.
When can we put clothes back in?
Not the moment it looks dry. A closed steel box holds solvent smell long after the surface is touch-dry, and clothes pick it up. We leave the doors and the locker open to air, tell you at handover when it is ready to load, and ask you to keep the almirah standing a little clear of the wall so the back panel is not sitting against damp plaster.
Let us look at your walls first.
Tell us about the property and we will set up a free colour and wall inspection. You get a written, itemised quotation afterwards, with no obligation to go ahead.
- We call you back the same day to get a picture of the property and the surfaces.
- We agree a time and come out for the free inspection.
- You get the written scope and itemised quotation.
- Nothing starts until you approve it.